Any fabric roll exceeding the specified score shall be classified as Grade B. If the average score of all fabric rolls in a batch exceeds the specified score threshold, the entire batch shall be deemed failed inspection.
Score Calculation
In principle, after each fabric roll is inspected, all scored defects shall be summed up. Grades are then determined against acceptance levels. Since different fabric widths require corresponding acceptance levels, the following formula can be used to calculate the score per 100 square yards for each roll. Only one specified score benchmark for 100 square yards needs to be established to grade fabrics of various widths.
Formula:
(Total Score × 36 × 100) ÷ (Yards Inspected × Usable Cuttable Fabric Width) = Score per 100 Square Yards
Woven Fabric Categories
- All-man-made fabrics, Polyester/Nylon/Acetate products, Shirting, Spun man-made fiber fabrics, Worsted wool fabrics
20 points / 100 sq. yds; 16 points / 100 sq. yds
- Denim, Canvas, Poplin/Oxford striped or checked shirting, Spun man-made fiber fabrics, Wool fabrics, Striped/check fabrics / Indigo yarn-dyed fabrics, All specialty fabrics, Jacquard/Dobby fabrics, Corduroy/Velvet, Stretch denim, Man-made fabrics, Blended fabrics
28 points / 100 sq. yds; 20 points / 100 sq. yds
- Linen, Cambric
40 points / 100 sq. yds; 32 points / 100 sq. yds
- Peau de soie / Light silk
50 points / 100 sq. yds; 40 points / 100 sq. yds
Knitted Fabric Categories
- All-man-made fabrics, Polyester/Nylon/Acetate products, Rayon, Worsted wool fabrics, Blended silk fabrics
20 points / 100 sq. yds; 16 points / 100 sq. yds
- All specialty fabrics, Jacquard/Dobby fabrics, Corduroy, Spun man-made fiber fabrics, Wool spun fabrics, Indigo yarn-dyed fabrics, Velvet/Spandex fabrics
25 points / 100 sq. yds; 20 points / 100 sq. yds
- Basic knitted fabrics (Combed cotton / Cotton blends)
30 points / 100 sq. yds; 25 points / 100 sq. yds
- Basic knitted fabrics (Carded cotton)
40 points / 100 sq. yds; 32 points / 100 sq. yds
Sampling Procedure
Rolls for inspection shall be selected entirely at random. The textile mill shall present the packing list to the inspector once at least 80% of rolls in a batch are packed. The inspector will select rolls for inspection from the list. Once inspection rolls are confirmed, no adjustments to the number of selected rolls are allowed. During inspection, no fabric yards may be cut from any roll except for color recording and verification. All inspected rolls shall be graded and assigned defect scores.
Recurring Defects
- Any repeated and/or continuously occurring defects are defined as recurring defects. Each yard containing recurring defects shall be scored 4 points.
- Regardless of total defect scores, any roll with recurring defects spanning more than 10 yards shall be rejected.
Full-Width Defects
- No roll with more than four full-width defects per 100 square yards may be classified as Grade A.
- Any roll averaging more than one major defect per 10 linear yards shall be rejected, irrespective of total defects within 100 yards.
- Any roll containing one major defect within the first 3 yards or last 3 yards shall be rejected. A major defect is defined as a defect scored 3 or 4 points.
- If fabric shows obvious slack or tight yarn along one selvage, or waves, wrinkles, creases and folds across the fabric body that prevent the fabric from lying flat when normally unfolded, such rolls cannot be graded as Grade A.
Fabric Width
- When inspecting a roll, width shall be measured a minimum of three times: at the start, middle and end. Additional width measurements shall be taken if the roll width is close to the minimum specified width or shows uneven width.
- Any roll narrower than the minimum ordered width shall be rejected.
- For woven fabrics: rolls exceeding the ordered width by 1 inch shall be rejected. Stretch woven fabrics may be accepted even if over width by up to 2 inches.
For knitted fabrics: rolls exceeding the ordered width by 2 inches shall be rejected. Lycra knitted fabrics may be accepted even if over width by up to 3 inches.
- Overall fabric width means the distance from outer selvage on one side to outer selvage on the opposite side.
Cuttable usable width refers to width measured excluding selvages, stenter pin holes, and unprinted, uncoated or otherwise untreated areas on the fabric body.
Color Shade Evaluation
- Color difference between rolls and between batches shall be no less than Grade 4 on the AATCC Gray Scale.
- During inspection, a 6–10 inch wide color sample strip shall be taken from each roll. Inspectors shall use these strips to compare shade variation within a single roll or between different rolls.
- Within one roll, shade variation edge-to-edge, edge-to-center or head-to-tail shall not be lower than Grade 4 on the AATCC Gray Scale. Each yard with such shade defects shall be scored 4 points.
- If inspected fabric differs from the pre-approved reference sample, the color difference shall be at minimum Grade 4–5 on the gray scale; otherwise the whole batch shall be rejected.
Roll Length
- Any roll with actual length deviating more than 2% from labeled length shall be rejected. Defect scoring will not be carried out for rolls with length deviation, but this issue shall be noted on the inspection report.
- If the total length of all sampled rolls deviates by 1% or more against total labeled length, the entire batch shall be rejected.
Fabric Joins
- For woven fabrics: A roll may consist of multiple joined sections unless otherwise stipulated in the purchase contract. Any roll containing a joined section shorter than 40 yards shall be rejected.
For knitted fabrics: A roll may consist of multiple joined sections unless otherwise stipulated in the purchase contract. Any roll containing a joined section weighing less than 30 pounds shall be rejected.
Bow
- For woven and knitted fabrics: All printed or striped fabric rolls with bow greater than 2%, and all corduroy rolls with skew greater than 3% cannot be graded Grade A.
Skew
- For woven fabrics: All printed and striped fabric rolls with skew greater than 2%, and all corduroy rolls with skew greater than 3% cannot be graded Grade A.
- For knitted fabrics: All corduroy and printed fabric rolls with skew greater than 5% cannot be graded Grade A.
Fabric Odor
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Any roll emitting unpleasant odor shall fail inspection.
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Holes: Any defect causing fabric damage shall be scored 4 points regardless of hole size. A hole is defined as two or more broken yarns.
Hand Feel
- Fabric hand feel shall be checked by comparison against the reference sample. If obvious differences exist, the roll shall be classified as Grade B with 4 points assigned per yard. If all rolls fail to match the hand feel of the reference sample, inspection shall be suspended and no scores assigned temporarily.
Post time: Jul-22-2026